Composite boards don't rot, and they never need stain, which is why so many Everett homeowners ask about them. They still sit on a wood frame, though, and they have their own quirks in shade and rain. We'll help you decide whether composite is right for your deck, then install it properly from the joists up.

What composite decking is, and what it is not

Composite decking is made from a mix of plastic and wood fibre, usually with a harder protective shell on the outside. Moisture doesn't rot it the way it rots wood. It won't splinter, and it never needs staining or sealing. For a deck that spends half the year damp, those are real advantages.

It isn't maintenance-free, though, and it isn't the whole deck. A composite deck is composite boards fastened to a frame of pressure-treated wood joists, beams and posts. That frame can still rot, and the ledger board where the deck meets your house can still let water in. Most of what makes a composite deck last comes down to how that hidden structure was built.

Here is what composite does well and where it needs care:

  • It resists rot, splitting and splintering on the surface
  • It never needs stain or sealer, only an occasional wash
  • It holds its color better than bare wood, though some fading happens in full sun
  • It costs more up front than pressure-treated wood or cedar
  • It can get slippery when wet, mossy or covered in leaves
  • It expands and contracts with temperature, so spacing and fasteners matter
  • It can show scratches from furniture legs, grills and dog claws

How composite holds up in Everett's climate

Our weather is the main reason people around Everett choose composite. From fall through spring, a wood deck may barely dry out between rains, especially on the north side of a house or under tall firs and cedars. Rot starts in those damp spots, and a stain job can look tired after one wet season. Composite boards don't soak up water the same way, so the surface stays sound much longer.

Shade still matters. Moss and algae can grow on composite where sun and airflow are poor, and fir needles packed between the boards hold moisture against the surface. A composite deck in heavy shade needs a wash a couple of times a year and clear gaps between the boards. Leave it and it will turn green and slick, just like wood.

Summer brings the opposite problem. Darker composite colors can get hot in direct afternoon sun, enough to be uncomfortable on bare feet. On a south or west facing deck with no shade, we usually suggest a lighter color.

Can new composite go on your old deck frame?

People often ask whether we can take off old wood boards and put composite on the existing frame. Sometimes the answer is yes, and it can save a fair amount of work. But composite boards will usually outlast the wood frame under them, so putting new boards on a tired frame means pulling them up again later to fix it.

Before we recommend resurfacing, we check the frame closely. We probe the joists and posts for soft wood. We look at the ledger connection from below to see whether it is bolted and flashed, and we check that the deck is level and the footings haven't moved. We also measure joist spacing. Many composite boards need joists closer together than older wood decks were built with, and diagonal patterns need closer spacing still. Sometimes adding joists between the existing ones solves that.

If the frame is solid, resurfacing is a sensible choice. If several joists are soft, the ledger is nailed on with no flashing, or the posts sit rotting on the soil, we'll tell you plainly that the frame should be rebuilt first. That way the new boards and the structure under them can last about as long as each other.

Choosing boards, colors and fasteners

Composite boards vary more than most people expect. Some have a full protective shell and some are capped on only three sides. Some are solid and some are hollow underneath. Colors range from pale grey to dark brown, and many boards have a printed grain or a mixed tone that looks more like wood. We bring samples so you can see them against your siding and in your own light, because the same board can look quite different in a shaded yard and in full sun.

Fasteners are worth thinking about too. Hidden clips that grip the edge of grooved boards give a clean surface with no screw heads showing. Colored face screws made for composite are another option and work well on stairs and edges. Either way, the boards need room to expand and contract. Gaps that look generous on a cool October day can be just right in August.

Railings, stair treads and fascia boards can match the decking or contrast with it. We'll talk through what suits your house and how much upkeep you're willing to take on for each part.

Problems we see on composite decks

Composite is durable, but we still get calls about it. Nearly every problem traces back to how the deck was installed, not to the boards themselves. These are the most common:

  • Boards that sag between joists because the joists were spaced too far apart
  • Buckled or gapped boards from too little room for expansion
  • Rotted joists or ledger boards under a surface that still looks fine
  • Water trapped on the deck because the boards were laid with no slope
  • Moss and slick patches on shaded decks that rarely get washed
  • Cut board ends left without the care the manufacturer calls for

What a composite decking job involves

It starts with a visit. We look at your existing deck or the area where you want one, check the frame if there is one, take measurements and ask how you use the space. We'll explain whether resurfacing makes sense or whether the frame needs work, and whether the job is likely to need a permit.

Once you decide to go ahead, we remove any old decking and fix or rebuild the frame as needed. That includes flashing over the ledger, proper hangers and joist spacing that suits the boards you chose. Then we lay the decking with the right gaps and fasteners, build or refit the stairs and railings, and finish the edges and fascia. We keep the site tidy and haul away the old material.

When the job is done, we walk the deck with you and show you how to look after it. That usually means sweeping off needles, washing it with a soft brush and mild soap a couple of times a year, and keeping drainage gaps clear. Composite is meant to save you work, and a little attention keeps it that way.

FAQ

Common questions about composite decking

Yes, but much less than wood. They never need staining or sealing. In our damp climate they should be swept and washed with a soft brush and mild soap a couple of times a year to keep moss, algae and packed needles from building up, especially in shade.

Often, if the frame is sound. We check the joists, posts, footings and ledger connection, and we measure joist spacing, since composite usually needs joists closer together than older decks have. If the frame is failing, we'll recommend fixing it first so the new boards aren't sitting on wood that will need replacing soon.

It can be, particularly when moss, algae or wet leaves build up on it. Boards with a textured surface and regular cleaning help a lot. We can also talk through options for stairs and shaded areas, where slipping is the biggest concern.

Darker colors can get uncomfortably warm in direct afternoon sun. If your deck faces south or west with little shade, a lighter color is usually the better choice. We bring samples so you can compare them in your own light.

Most boards hold their color well, though some gradual fading in full sun is normal. The surface can scratch from furniture, grills or pet claws, and minor marks often soften over time. Felt pads under furniture and a mat under the grill help.

Get Started

Tell us what your deck is doing

Call (425) 010-0006 or send a note through the form. Tell us about the deck and what you have noticed, and we will set up a time to look at it.